Cudbear.

Chambers's Encyclopaedia, Volume 3: Catarrh to Dion, p. 607

Cudbear. The lichens from which, and the process by which, this dyestuff is obtained, are described under the head ARCHIL, cudbear being simply archil paste dried and ground. It is very useful to the wool-dyer for producing, in conjunction with indigo, logwood, fustic, and other colouring materials, rich shades of brown and chocolate. The preparation of archil, known as French purple, was used for a short time in calico-printing, and produced fine and delicate shades of purple, but its employment for this purpose ceased soon after the introduction of aniline mauve as a dyestuff. The ancient Cretan purple was probably obtained from the same source as archil. The name cudbear is a corruption of Cuthbert, and is derived from that of Dr Cuthbert Gordon, under whose management the manufacture of this dyestuff was begun in Leith about the year 1777, by Mr Macintosh of Glasgow.

Source scan(s): p. 0618