Madeira, the largest of a small group of islands in the North Atlantic Ocean, off the north-west coast of Africa, from the nearest point of which it is 390 miles distant, in 32° 40' N. lat., 17° W. long. It lies 1164 miles SW. of the Lizard, and 535 miles SW. of Lisbon, and is within four days' sail of Plymouth, and six of Liverpool. The other islands of the group are Porto Santo, 23 miles to the NE., with a population of less than 2000; here Columbus lived for a time before he touched at Funchal. The Desertas, 11 miles SE., are three uninhabited islands consisting of Deserta Grande, Bugio, and Ilheo Chao. Madeira (Portuguese, 'timber,' the island having once been well wooded) was uninhabited when discovered in the 14th century, and was first settled in 1419. It is 38 miles long, by 12 to 15 wide, and along with the other islands of the group is treated as an integral province of Portugal, entitled to send representatives to the Cortes at Lisbon. It was occupied by British troops in 1801 for a few months, and again from 1807 to 1814. Pop. (1881) 132,223; estimated (1898) 140,000. It is traversed by a mountain-chain running east and west, with deep ravines between the lateral ridges thrown off, the most notable of which is the 'Grand Curral,' with a depth of more than 2000 feet. The islands are of volcanic origin, and are the summits of lofty mountains, rising in Pico Ruivo to 6059 feet, in Torres Peaks to 6000, Pico Arrieiro to 5895, and in many others to 4000 and 5000 feet. Slight earthquakes occasionally occur. In the south the brooks are dry in summer, and the country is treeless and arid; the north side is more luxuriant and fertile, with wider areas of cultivated ground; in the north-west are undulating grassy plains. The coasts are steep and precipitous, the only harbour being that of Funchal (q.v.) on the south coast, which is little better than an open roadstead where passengers are landed in boats. The Loo rock has, however, been joined to the mainland to form a breakwater, and a pier was undertaken in 1889.
The clouds, which are attracted by the mountains, yield plenty of moisture, and the climate is remarkable for its constancy, though probably too relaxing for those in perfect health, and accustomed to a temperate climate. The thermometer at Funchal shows a mean temperature of 61° F. At the coldest season the thermometer occasionally registers a minimum of 50° F. In the hottest days of summer it seldom rises above 80°, while 90° is exceptional. The prevailing wind during nine months of the year is north-east. The average rainfall is 29 inches, and the average number of days on which rain falls in heavy showers is 70, but there are few really wet days. The temperate and constant warmth of its climate has made it a favourite resort for invalids affected by pulmonary disease. The only land reptile is the lizard, and Madeira has no indigenous mammalia, though the ordinary domestic animals, together with rabbits, rats, and mice, have been introduced by the Portuguese. The fruits and grains of Europe are cultivated on the lower levels; the products include wheat, barley, Indian corn, the potato, oranges, lemons, guavas, mangos, figs, and bananas. Travellers praise the golden splendour of the wide expanses of gorse and broom in blossom, and of the marvellous masses of colour, pink, mauve, and brick-dust red of the flora of the island. There are between 300 and 400 genera of wild flowering plants, and 717 species; more than 40 species of ferns, and 100 of moss.
Wine is the chief export, several kinds being produced in the island. That known in Europe as Madeira, a wine of strong body and fine bouquet, is made of a mixture of black and white grapes. The vines were nearly exterminated in 1852 and succeeding years by oidium, but were soon replanted; and oidium and the phylloxera have since been kept in check by sulphur, so that only one bad vintage has been recorded in twenty-five years. Sugar-canes brought from Demerara and the Canary Islands are flourishing.
The inhabitants are of mixed Portuguese, Moorish, and Negro descent; they are of vigorous frame, lively, and industrious, economical and simple in their habits. In 1888 there were 4000 emigrants chiefly to the Brazils. A great drawback to visitors is the absence of roads; the only six miles of macadamised roadway being that between Funchal and Camara do Lobos, a fishing-village of about 6000 inhabitants. Loads are carried on the head by natives, and hammocks and sledges drawn by bullocks are used for the tracks, while small sledges assist travellers down the mountains sometimes. The government is non-progressive, and Roman Catholicism is predominant. At Funchal there is the governor's palace, town-hall, opera-house, cathedral, English church, and Presbyterian church in connection with the Free Church of Scotland. The Lyceo at Funchal has 7 professors paid by government.
Articles of native produce, such as meat, poultry, and eggs, are cheap; but all imported articles, owing to the high import duty, are dear. There is a weekly mail and cable connection from Funchal with Lisbon and Brazil. The imports have an annual value of about £200,000. The value of the exports, mainly wine, reaches some years £185,000. The leading imports consist of coal, dry-goods, maize, wheat, and petroleum. The export of fruit and vegetables is on the increase; and as irrigation has been introduced with great advantage, Madeira promises to become more and more the market-garden of London. The trade is chiefly with Great Britain.
See works by White (2d ed. 1860), Grabham (1869), Piazzi Smyth (1882), Miss Taylor (1882), Yate Johnson (1885), Brown (1890), C. A. Gordon (1894), and articles in Fraser's Magazine (vol. xii. 1875) and Blackwood (vol. cxliii. 1888).